Introducing a new pet

How to introduce a new pet

• Continue to lavish attention on your "first" pets. It's so easy to get caught up with the newcomer ... but your other pets may be feeling a bit put out. Spend plenty of time with them reassuring them that they're still a special part of the family. • Take things slowly; don't force your pets together. Introduce them in controlled situations, and give them time to adjust at their own pace. Allow them to gain confidence and decide when they'd like to face their new housemates. • Feed them away from each other. Use separate food and water bowls, and keep them physically separated when eating. Do not tolerate aggressive behavior. • Always supervise your pets until you are sure they get along. For the first couple of months, we left one of the dogs in the kennel and the other free whenever we had to go out. Some pets will adjust quickly; others may take weeks or even months before they're fully adjusted.

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hello, I have two older maltese dogs, both are ten years old, one has cataracs in both eyes, and a bad knee problem, the other has a spine problem, well I decieded to buy a puppy, he's coming next week, only three months old, hope all the boys get along, I bought the puppy in my own town, and was licky to find one so close, now I'm looking for a great name for him, my other boys are alex.and andy and they are muched loved!
Barbara

Congratulations on your new pup! My older dog was 15 when Flurry came to bring her into her 2nd childhood. My 15 yr old is happier, plays and happy to have a companion! I am sure your little guy will liven up your home. Enjoy

Congratulations!

Introduction Techniques:

Choose A Neutral Location Introduce the dogs in a neutral location so that your resident dog is less likely to view the newcomer as a territorial intruder. Each dog should be handled by a separate person. With both dogs on leashes, begin the introductions in an area unfamiliar to each, such as a park or a neighbor's yard. If you frequently walk your resident dog in a nearby park, she may view that area as her territory, too, so choose a less familiar site. If you are adopting your dog from an animal shelter, you might even bring your resident dog to the local shelter and introduce the two there.
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Use Positive Reinforcement From the first meeting, help both dogs experience "good things" when they're in each other's presence. Let them sniff each other briefly, which is normal canine greeting behavior. As they do, talk to them in a happy, friendly tone of voice; never use a threatening tone. (Don't allow them to investigate and sniff each other for too long, however, as this may escalate to an aggressive response.) After a short time, get the attention of both dogs and give each a treat in return for obeying a simple command, such as "sit" or "stay." Take the dogs for a walk and let them sniff and investigate each other at intervals. Continue with the "happy talk," food rewards, and simple commands.

Be Aware of Body Postures One body posture that indicates things are going well is a "play-bow." One dog will crouch with her front legs on the ground and her hind end in the air. This is an invitation to play, and a posture that usually elicits friendly behavior from the other dog. Watch carefully for body postures that indicate an aggressive response, including hair standing up on one dog's back, teeth-baring, deep growls, a stiff-legged gait, or a prolonged stare. If you see such postures, interrupt the interaction immediately by calmly getting each dog interested in something else. For example, both handlers can call their dogs to them, have them sit or lie down, and reward each with a treat. The dogs' interest in the treats should prevent the situation from escalating into aggression. Try letting the dogs interact again, but this time for a shorter time period and/or at a greater distance from each other.
Taking the Dogs Home When the dogs seem to be tolerating each other's presence without fearful or aggressive responses, and the investigative greeting behaviors have tapered off, you can take them home. Whether you choose to take them in the same vehicle will depend on their size, how well they ride in the car, how trouble-free the initial introduction has been, and how many dogs are involved.
If you have more than one resident dog in your household, it may be best to introduce the resident dogs to the new dog one at a time. Two or more resident dogs may have a tendency to "gang up" on the newcomer.

It is important to support the dominant dog in your household, even if that turns out to be the newcomer. This may mean, for example, allowing the dominant dog to claim a favored sleeping spot as his or to have access to a desirable toy. Trying to impose your preference for which dog should be dominant can confuse the dogs and create further problems.


Introducing Puppies to Adult Dogs

Puppies usually pester adult dogs unmercifully. Before the age of four months, puppies may not recognize subtle body postures from adult dogs signaling that they've had enough. Well-socialized adult dogs with good temperaments may set limits with puppies with a warning growl or snarl. These behaviors are normal and should be allowed. Adult dogs who aren't well-socialized, or who have a history of fighting with other dogs, may attempt to set limits with more aggressive behaviors, such as biting, which could harm the puppy. For this reason, a puppy shouldn't be left alone with an adult dog until you're confident the puppy isn't in any danger. Be sure to give the adult dog some quiet time away from the puppy, and some extra individual attention as well.

When to Get Help

If the introductions don't go smoothly, contact a professional animal behaviorist immediately. Dogs can be severely injured in fights, and the longer the problem continues, the harder it can be to resolve. Punishment won't work, and could make things worse. Fortunately, most conflicts between dogs in the same family can be resolved with professional guidance.

The following insights and techniques are adapted from the book, "Creating a Peaceable Kingdom: How to Live with More Than One Pet" by Cynthia D. Miller.

Issues to consider before bringing a new dog home:

* Barking

If your present dog is not a barker, remember that another dog may create a noisemaking situation. Even if the new dog is not a barker, the two dogs together may increase the excitement level so greatly that they just can't help themselves. Perhaps they make noise only when they are playing, but it can still be irritating to those around you.

(Note: It is important to determine and address the underlying cause of problems such as barking, not just the symptoms.)

* Fighting

Some breeds or individual dogs tend to fight more than others. If the dog you have an affection for is one that has a tendency to be dog-aggressive, be prepared to deal with this problem. (This might include careful supervision when you're home, and total separation of the dogs when you can't supervise them.)

* Training

Your present dog should be well trained before adding another canine. Being able to control using basic obedience commands is essential. Every dog should be obedience trained using a gentle, mutual respect-based training method.

If you have not given your pet reason to doubt the sincerity of your motives or any reason to be resentful or distrusting, you will not lose control simply because there is another dog in the house.

* Pack Behavior

If you have two dogs and are adopting a third, you may find that the two gang up on the new addition. When two dogs create a united front against the newcomer, intervene and take charge immediately to make the transition work. Otherwise, the situation can become dangerous.

Your pets will know you are leader if you have shown them that the best thing in the world is to look to you for guidance. When the dogs know that you make the rules, they live by your standards. They will work out a pecking order among themselves, and they will continue to respect your authority. Make sure they see you as master before they spend extended time alone together.

* Gender

As long as you spay and neuter, one animal of each delete is the most frequently recommended combination. Peaceful coexistence depends on three keys -- the unique personality of the animal, your attitude, and your determination to make it work -- not just the gender of the animal.

* Age

Getting another dog of a different age will generally make things easier. If both dogs are adolescents, they can be quite unruly. Although there are no set rules, some trainers suggest that the best age difference is around three years. This difference seems to make the balance of dominant and submissive positions evolve naturally. The development of friendships can be more difficult with a larger age span.

* Two Puppies

Training one puppy takes hard, dedicated work. Training two puppies is twice the work.

If you know that you want two dogs, it is recommended to get one dog and raise him with all of the manners that you would expect your little canine buddy to possess, and then add another. The older dog may demonstrate the proper way to earn your attention and admiration, and your new little charge may learn the ways of your home more quickly.

* Attention

Keep your first buddy confident in the knowledge that he is important. Letting your attention diminish because of the new family member can produce jealousy in your first dog, which may create aggressive behavior and anxiety.

In dogdom, there is no equality; there is a definite hierarchy, with one dog higher than the other. Your new dog will not suffer a psychological blow if you give the first dog more attention. Show your first dog affection when the new dog is around.

* Dominance Issues

Bringing in a new animal companion will alter the dynamics of the group, so this is an especially important time to be aware of social order. Your dominant dog should have his ranking reinforced by being fed first, going through the door first (though not ahead of you), and receiving your attention first.

* Keeping Order

Although the dogs must develop their own social order, they must remember that you are still in charge. This means being fair on reprimands as well as affection. Any misbehavior, regardless of who started it, must be handled equally (and with consistency). When play gets too rough, all must be placed in a down-stay position or separated until calm is restored. Make the rules, and then back them up with necessary action.

Do not let your resident pet think that the relationship is up to his discretion. Do not force the new dog on him, but make sure he understands that he has no room to question your actions. You brought the new family member into the home and he must accept him. Even if the present dog does not want to interact and build a friendship with the new addition, he must cordially tolerate the existence of the newcomer.

If one dog is continually getting into mischief, he may be expressing a need for more attention.

* Making Introductions

Think positively. Act with authority and confidence. Remember, what you feel and think translates to your actions even if subconsciously, and your animals sense your emotions.

Introduce the dogs in neutral territory. A secure, fenced area works well. Opposite-delete introductions tend to go smoother than same-delete introductions. Also, if the dogs are neutered or spayed, you will have an easier time.

Praise positive behaviors and avoid giving attention, even negative attention, for undesirable behavior. Do not reprimand, sweet talk, or in any other way interact with your pet until he is calm and relaxed.

Be sensitive to signs of stress or incompatibility. Supervise the interactions. Recognize a balance between too much roughness and the natural behavior of dogs working out a social order. During the adjustment period, be patient and cautious.

* Once at Home

Provide them each a place to feel secure and unintimidated in your home. Your first dog should be able to relax in his spot without worrying that he needs to protect it.

At meal time, feed at the same time but in separate areas of a room. Separate with a gate or in different rooms if either dog seems anxious.

Helpful websites include:

www.vin.com/PetCare/Articles/dogs/pcf00374.htm
www.vin.com/PetCare/Articles/dogs/pcf02631.htm
www.wonderpuppy.net/canwehelp/index.htm
www.doggiedoor.com/twodogs.shtml
www.doggiedoor.com/2dogintr.shtml
Next week: "Introducing New Dogs to Cats."

For more Dog Tips about traveling with dogs and other care, adoption and the work PAW does, visit our website at:
www.paw-rescue.org

Partnership for Animal Welfare, Inc.
P.O. Box 1074, Greenbelt, MD 20768

Bringing home a new pet requires a period of transition and adjustment for other pets in the household. Some pets may hide from the new addition and others might try to push it around. Pets may begin attention-seeking behavior such as barking, pawing, stealing items, pushing the new addition out of the way, and jumping. This behavior should discontinue within a week or two. If the animals in the household do not revert to normal behavior within a short time or if they become aggressive, a qualified specialist may be needed to resolve the issue.



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Make sure the new pet is healthy and has up-to-date vaccinations. Test results for fecal parasites must be negative. New cats must have their viral titer (feline immunodeficiency virus [FIV], feline leukemia virus [FELV]) status checked. Cats with positive results should not be brought into a negative household.

Gradual introductions are important. The new pet should be kept separate from the other pets unless they are closely supervised. The new pet should be placed in a neutral area (den, finished basement, brightly lit bathroom) with toys, a blanket, and water. The new pet should not be placed in an area that is considered highly desirable by the other pets. Areas of high value include places where people spend a lot of time with the pets (bedrooms) or where the pets choose to stay when they are alone (around food dishes or on window sills that are good perch sites). If your dog is crated, you can accustom the dog quickly to a new dog by crating the new dog across the room where it can be seen by the original one. As the dogs become more accustomed to each other, their crates can be moved gradually closer together until they are side by side.

The area in which you are confining the new pet must be "pet-proof." Toilet seats should be down, electric cords should be tied up, sockets should be protected with child guards, and fragile items should be moved.

Whenever any animal is isolated, it is critical that the animal receive social attention whenever possible. Spend some time alone with the new pet. Then, bring the new pet outside on a leash or harness and introduce it to the other animals.

If the animals in the household are calm and ignore each other or act friendly despite the new addition, you can feed them within sight of the new pet. Feeding and petting the animals in each other's presence teaches them that good things happen when they are together and calm. For this to be successful, neither side can react violently. If a pet does react this way, banish that animal to a neutral zone immediately and try again when it is calm. If it again reacts violently, banish the pet for the rest of the day or evening and try later in the day or the next morning.

Some aggressive and undesirable interactions are not violent but are still not conducive to the development of a good relationship between the pets. You can learn to watch for subtle behaviors that can signal potential problems. This behavior includes pilo-erection (hair lifting on scruff, neck, or back), staring, snarling, stalking, side-by-side posturing with growling or lip lifting, and pinning the other animal by grabbing its neck. Cats are masters of subtle threats, including a direct stare and an elevation of the rump and base of the tail with or without pilo-erection. If you believe the new pet is losing the contest, is terrified, or is becoming too aggressive, separate the animals. Do not put your hands or other body parts between the animals.

Reward good behavior with small food treats and petting. Leashes can be tied to furniture or doorknobs that allow the pets to sniff each other and react, but do not permit them to lunge at and injure one another. Never leave a tied pet unsupervised.



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Make sure each pet has 5 to 10 minutes alone with you each day. This attention can include grooming, playing with a toy, or petting. Make sure that the pet is happy and relaxed at these times. A regular schedule may reduce anxiety about the new addition because they can rely on individual attention.

Put a bell on the new animal so that you always know where it is. During this period when you are beginning to provide the pets with free access, provide additional water dishes, litter boxes, beds, and toys to minimize competition and aggressive interaction.

The keys to success are patience and observation. The social system in the household may shift. Let the animals set their own pace. In many cases the pets never become close companions but are reasonably content leading separate lives under the same roof. Do not push the animals to develop relationships they clearly do not want.

If aggression between new pets continues, you can try a behavioral modification technique called flooding. In flooding, one animal is kept confined or otherwise restrained while it is reacting inappropriately in the presence of the other animal. An aggressive animal can be crated for an extended period with food, water, toys, litter box, if necessary, and a blanket, while the other animal is locked in a room with it or placed in a similar cage facing the aggressor. If the animals become more aggressive and upset, flooding should be stopped. This technique is a last resort and should not be attempted without qualified advice.

Medication may be useful in addition to behavioral and environmental modification. In extreme cases, in which treatment has failed, the best solution may be to place one of the animals in a new home.

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